The Basics of Shaving with a Straight Razor
The straight razor shave is that of precision and skill. It is a shave that requires practice, and focus. Learning how to shave with a straight razor is definitely not for every man, but it can be for any man.
As a woman, I understand the focus and following of why men shave with a straight razor. A man’s face is what a woman first notices. (Well, unless you’re at the beach or pool).
So let’s get down to the basics of shaving with a straight razor.
The essentials:
- A straight razor that is shave ready
- Shaving soap/cream (to a lather)
- Shaving brush (the most recommended is a badger hair)
- A leather strop.
It is important that you make sure your skin is shave ready. Yes, gentlemen there is a lot of prep when it comes to a straight razor shave!
Before you begin make sure that you have all the tools at your fingertips for easy use and better focus. Get a cup or a bowl ready with steaming hot water and allow your brush to soak in it.
While your brush is soaking you need to open up the pores of your skin on your face, thus allowing your facial hair to soften. (Facial hair is notoriously coarser than all other hair on your body). To do this run a towel under hot water and apply it to your face until the towel cools. This can be repeated if necessary, or desired.
Immediately after removing the towel apply the shaving soap/cream in a circular motion to your face. Make sure a thick layer of lather is applied.
While the shaving soap/cream is on your face, strop your razor one last time. You want to use a leather strop running the blade along it. I recommend that you do somewhere between 30 and 60 passes in a fast motion with light pressure for optimum results.
If your face is no longer moist make sure you reapply the shaving soap/cream (so blade is not getting caught or skipping due to the soap drying).
After you have re-lathered, if necessary, stretch the area of skin you are shaving so it is tight and then apply the straight razor at a 20-degree angle. For each pass you will start with short strokes moving on to long ones. For optimum results I recommend that you do three passes, but it is not necessary if time is a factor.
For the first pass you will always start with the growth direction of your facial hair.
For the second pass re-apply the shaving soap/cream and go sideways with the grain of your face. (Obviously there will be areas of your face and neck that this will not be possible, therefore skip this pass for these areas).
The third and final pass is the most dangerous and you should be very careful when completing it. For this final step you are going to go against the grain of your facial hair (yes, up). (Be especially careful around your nose, ears, etc.).
After you have completed all three passes you are done. Rinse your face off with cold water (versus the hot) to close up your pores.
These are the basics of a straight razor shave. Remember guys just like Julia Roberts said in Pretty Woman, “I don’t kiss on the mouth its too personal,” your face is the most personal part of your body to a woman. The more time and attention you give to your face, the more attractive and appealing you become. Trust me!
One final note, once you have mastered the straight razor shave. Teach the woman in your life. Because lets face it; there is nothing sexier than having your woman getting exactly what she wants.
The Difference in Shaving Brushes
Shaving brushes have been around since the 1700’s. Bristles are genreally made from badger hair, boar hair, or synthetic materials. Shaving brush handles are available in wood, porcelain, pewter, tortoise shell, and plastic. Shaving soap in a shaving mug is lathered using the shaving brush and applied to the skin. This softens and lifts the facial hair making it easier to shave.
Badger hair has been a major industry of China for many years. China exports badger hair to shaving brush manufacturers in other countries and sells badger meat in their markets. Therefore, the badger population is carefully watched. Badger hair is more expensive due to the higher cost of removing the hair from the badger. The different grades of badger hair are pure, best, super, and silver tip.
Pure badger hair is firmer and coarser than the other grades of badger hair. This grade works well to remove dead skin cells from the skin before shaving. Pure badger hair ranges in color from light tan to almost black with some silver. Best badger hair is finer and more flexible. This hair is slightly longer in length than pure badger hair and lighter in color. Super badger hair is softer on the skin. This grade has slightly grayish-white tips and is often mistaken for the silver tip grade. Shaving brushes made from this grade are more expensive. Silver tip badger hair is the most expensive and rarest of badger hair. This grade is extremely soft and has white tips.
Boar bristles are also used to make shaving brushes. Boar hair is stiffer and less expensive than badger hair. Synthetic materials such as nylon are also used for shaving brushes. This is also much less expensive than badger hair.
Depending on the grade of bristles and the material of the handle, shaving brushes range in price from $5 to over $1,000. Shaving brushes can be purchased in local department stores, drug stores, beauty supply stores, and barber shops. Better quality shaving brushes can be purchased online from manufacturers all across the world.
Utilizing a shaving brush is more beneficial and favorable than using a razor with shaving cream. The motion to use the shaving brush softens and lifts the facial hair. Applying shaving cream mats or unevenly raises facial hair. A multiple-blade razor is needed when using shaving cream whereas only a straight razor is needed when using a shaving brush.
Why You Need a Shaving Brush
A shaving brush is your most important tool for getting a great shave. Yet, it’s often overlooked. Rather than rubbing shave cream on your face with your fingers, invest in a brush that prepares your face for the closest shave you’ve had in your life. A shaving brush is what separates the men from the boys.
What does it do?
A shaving brush is much more than a stick with whiskers. A solid brush is made from genuine badger whiskers. Cheaper alternatives come from boar hair. Once you dip your brush in hot water and mix with shaving cream, an interesting thing happens. The brush mixes the shaving cream and water to create a thick lather that not only covers your face, but exfoliates and removes dead skin. The badger hair lifts your facial hair and suspends it in the thick lather giving you the closest shave of your life. The suspended hair is sliced by your razor at a closer distance that you would without using a brush.
How much does it cost?
A badger shaving brush runs you anywhere from $15 to $600. The large difference in price is due to the amount of badger hair on the brush and the method of production. You don’t need expenses badger shaving brushes to get the job done. More expensive brushes tend to retain more water and produce more lather. The difference is negligible.
How do I use it?
To offset the difference in price simply shave a small section at a time. For instance, lather your right cheek with your shaving brush and concentrate your efforts on one area. When you’re done, simply wipe the finished area and move on to a new area of your face.
Final thoughts
Take your shave to the next level and invest in a badger shaving brush. A solid brush will increase the amount of lather you produce and give you a close, smooth shave. Save money by purchasing an average costing brush. Make up for the difference by shaving small areas at a time. Remember, the details are what make the man.
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